The perfect longboard wave is a curious thing. While shorter surfboards perform best in large, fast waves, the ideal wave for longboards, which can reach 11 to 12 feet long, isn’t about power or size.
Surfing is beholden to fluidity – from swell formation, to tides, to the actual act of riding a wave. But surfers, themselves, aren’t very fluid. In fact, we’re all pretty homogenous; we’re fiercely ...
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